Gripped Magazine
9-Year-Old Girl Sends 5.12a Trad Climb in Squamish
At only nine years old, American climber Reagan Goodwyn has already racked up an impressive resume of trad climbs, including multi-pitches. Last month, she sent Sentry Box 5.12a—a Squamish classic. The route is located on Nightmare Rock in Murrin Park and was first freed by Eric Weinstein in 1976. You watch Goodwyn send the route in a video embedded below.
“My new favorite climb, and one of my proudest sends!” said Goodwyn on Instagram. “Sentry Box (5.12a), starts out with a super fun 5.10 hand and finger crack that leads to the first crux—the roof! It’s a pretty long reach for me, so I have to get my feet high and stretch as far as I can to reach the finger lock around the corner.
“Once you’re through the roof, you can take a little rest before heading into the true crux of the route. A super steep, tiny finger crack that leads all the way to the chains! It starts out with pretty good finger locks, but quickly shrinks down to where I can just barely get my two smallest fingers in the crack! After tiptoeing through the thinnest part of the crack, you get back into a few good finger locks, before the final mantle onto the ledge for the send!”
This is not Goodwyn’s first trad rodeo, having led her first crack on gear route at only four years old. She has since sent countless splitters in Indian Creek, Red Rocks, Index, Cochise, Yosemite, and more. She spent time in Squamish this summer and added another feather to her cap when she topped the Chief via Calculus Crack to the Squamish Buttress 5.10c.
Reagan Goodwyn climbing Sentry Box 5.12a trad
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