Gripped Magazine
Jules Marchaland Climbing a New 5.15b in 2025
Earlier this year, French climber Jules Marchaland made the first ascent of Le bruit de l’acid 5.15b (9b) in Claret, France, for his first of the grade – watch the new first ascent video below.
Le bruit de l’acid is an endurance test. After a 5.13a intro, a poor rest follows before launching into two stacked boulder problems. The first clocks in at around V13, the second around V10, with no rest in between. “You basically can’t chalk for 25 moves,” said Marchaland about the climb.
“When [Lucien Martinez] told me about this project, I immediately wanted to check it out,” said Marchaland. “And, unsurprisingly, I loved it straight away. The crux is a mega cross dyno into a good pinch, exactly what I love. I’d never tried a hard route that suited me as well. After more than 20 falls at the dyno and 4 falls at the last [easy] boulder problem I finally send this route which occupied my mind for some time.”
On March 28, Marchaland sent Beyond 5.15a in Pic Saint-Loup on his second go for his fifth of the grade. He sent three 5.15a routes in 2023 including First Ley in Margalef, Supercrackinette in Saint Leger, and Punt’X in Gorges du Loup. Late last spring he completed Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse. After his 5.15b FA, Marchaland focused on bouldering and sent Big Nose V15 and Power of Now Direct V15 this summer.
5.15b First Ascent
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