Gripped Magazine
New Granite Multi-Pitch M9 WI6+ Sent in Italy
South Tyrolean climbers Simon Gietl and Manuel Oberarzbacher have opened a striking new mixed line, Argos (M9 WI6+), on a previously untouched wall just 30 minutes from the road. Long concealed by dense forest, the face only came to light after a recent rockfall cleared the trees. Although too wet and mossy for pure rock climbing, its cracked granite slabs offered perfect terrain for a demanding mixed route.
Gietl and Oberarzbacher completed the first ascent of Argos at the end of November. Soon after, Gietl returned with Mario Kaeppeli to redpoint the line. They describe the climbing as varied, intense, and tucked away in a remote-feeling corner of South Tyrol despite its moderate access.
Reaching the base of the main wall is more involved than it first appeared. Gietl notes that the approach itself requires two short pitches of M4 and M5+, followed by a brief traverse to the start of the route proper. From there, Argos rises through five sustained pitches on high-quality granite, weaving through cracks, dihedrals, and a slender ribbon of WI6+ ice midway up.
For future parties, Gietl and Oberarzbacher have left several pitons in place and recommend carrying two sets of Totem Cams, a selection of #3 Friends, and four short ice screws. Check out more photos on Gietl’s Instagram below.
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