Gripped Magazine
Sungsu Lee Sends Floatin V16
Sungsu Lee recently sent Floatin V16 (8C+) in Mizugaki, Japan. Floatin was established by Ryuichi Murai in December 2021, but didn’t see a second ascent until October 2023 by Florian Wientjes. The granite boulder only has six moves and involves many feet-off dynamic throws from crimps to gastons, as well as a powerful deadpoint at the top.
“Masterpiece,” said Lee about Floatin on Instagram as he shared his send with the world. “No words needed.” The problem has only been repeated a handful of times by climbers including Ryohei Kameyama, Yuta Imaizumi, and Sean Bailey. Will Bosi gave it an earnest attempt in 2024, but a series of split tips interrupted his projecting process. Bosi ultimately left the problem unfinished, opting to climb other classics in the area instead.
Lee has had an incredible run over the last couple of years. In May of this year, he sent Burden of Dreams V17 and climbed the problem twice to ensure good style. When he topped the problem for the first time, he didn’t realize he had dabbed until later when he watched the footage. While the dab arguably didn’t take anything away from his send, Lee went back for another session and climbed it again to quash any doubts about the legitimacy of his ascent.
He also climbed Grand Illusion V16 in August and Sosa V16 in September, both in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. In late December 2024, Lee topped The Process in the Buttermilks V16, his first of the grade. He also sent many V15s that year, including Asagimadara in Japan and Monkey Wedding, Spray of Light, The Smile, and Finnish Line in South Africa. Lee has climbed up to 5.15a on a rope and has competed in many Lead and Boulder World Cups for the South Korean team.
Ryuichi Murai’s FA Floatin V16
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