Gripped Magazine
Giuliano Cameroni Opens a V15 in Switzerland
Prolific first ascensionist Giuliano Cameroni has just opened Trentatré Trentini V15 (8C) at Gotthard Pass near Ticino, Switzerland. The Swiss climber has now made the first ascent of more than a dozen boulder problems graded V15 or harder, three of which are V16.
Trentatré Trentini is a low start to the classic Trieste Gottardo V10, which features a very technical, powerful pistol squat move before gaining the lip. Cameroni’s new line, Trentatré Trentini, traverses in from the left. Trentatré Trentini adds a long throw and a very difficult move on the right shoulder as the climber releases a key heel hook.
“First move, you go to a shoulder-thumb-pebble helped by the index-pebble just above,” said Cameroni on Instagram. “Place a heel above the hand to get as close as possible to the wall, lean low right before matching left hand to five different pebbles on the wall, one for each finger (both very special holds). Go to a vertical shoulder, quite a good hold but really far from the first heel.
“From there hard foot move from heel to toe and then release the left foot and let everything fall into the shoulder. Hold the swing with one arm and kick the left foot on the wall to control the retro swing. Then make sure to have done Trieste a few times to not let go up there! Tried this line 5 sessions last summer and this season it went down on the first session with incredible conditions. Walked away with a very sore shoulder!”
Cameroni is one of the best boulderers in the world. He’s established many of Switzerland’s hardest and finest lines, including REM V16, Poison the Well V16, Mystic River V15, and Hazel Grace V15, among many, many others. In September 2025, he made the first ascent of Curve Ball V16 in Ticino. In addition to Trentatré Trentini, he recently made first ascents of Baby Shark V15 and Bim Bam Bum V13/14.
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