Gripped Magazine
Leo Bøe Makes 5.15a First Ascent of 425-Foot Single-Pitch Climb
Norweigian climber Leo Bøe recently made the first ascent of Verdens Ende 5.15a in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. Verdens Ende is roughly the same length as Seb Bouin’s Nordic Marathon, also in the Hanshelleren Cave, making it one of the longest single-pitch climbs in the world. For context, Project B.I.G (bolted by Adam Ondra and FA’d by Jakob Schubert) is roughly 60 meters. Jumbo Love (bolted by Randy Leavitt and FA’d by Chris Sharma) is 76 meters long.
“Due to no bolting being allowed, I preplaced trad gear in the cracks as if it were a bolted route (I didn’t place any new bolts or anchors),” said Bøe on Instagram. He continued, “I haven’t done any routes with such insane length before and grade-wise, I’m thinking low-end 5.15a. I really hope to see some people come try it!”
Verdens Ende required Bøe to do three rope changes to tame the rope drag. He explained that the route begins with Adam Ondra’s Brunhilde Low 5.14d, then continues into a run-out, pumpy section, into a slopey rail. A V9 crimpy boulder and physical move lead into an easy, juggy roof. Another crimpy section and a dynamic move to a jug over the lip lead to a ledge, where Bøe could change his rope one final time before 35 meters of 5.10 climbing to the top.
Bøe is known for his hard climbs and first ascents. In September last year, he made the first ascent of Hafgúfa 5.15a (9a+) in Norway, a mega-steep, almost horizontal climb that begins with a crash pad-protected section into a double knee-bar bat hang, at which point the climber can rope up for the remainder of the route. The next month, he sent Adam Ondra’s Change 5.15b/c in Flatanger. It was Bøe’s first of the grade. Hafgúfa was his second 5.15a ever, his first was Change P1 in September 2024. He has at least sixteen 5.14d routes to his name, according to his 8a.nu page.
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