Gripped Magazine
Jules Marchaland Ticks an Adam Ondra 5.14d and 5.15a
Jules Marchaland just finished up a sport climbing trip to Flatanger, Norway. He had lots of success, sending two popular Adam Ondra routes: Illusionist 5.14d (9a) and Kangaroo’s Limb 5.15a (9a+).
On September 18, Marchaland sent Illusionist. “Happy to tick this route as a comeback after an injury and being sick,” he said about the climb on Instagram. “Just a few days ago I felt really weak, so it feels great to be back.” He almost sent Kangaroo’s limb that same day but the rope accidentally caught him during a send go, ruining the ascent. “Came back [the next day], last day, body completely drained… and somehow managed to finish the business, on a trip that definitely wasn’t the smoothest,” said Marchaland. “So psyched to put my name on the list for this route.”
Illusionist was opened by Ondra in 2013, the line was originally envisioned as a warm-up climb for the ultra-hard routes in the cave. The short, bouldery route turned out to be much harder than expected, leading Ondra to grade it 5.14d. The route traverses not far off the ground, which results in some sketchy falls at the crux.
Kangaroo’s Limb was also established by Ondra in 2013. Jakob Schubert picked up the second ascent, Stefano Ghisolfi the third, Shawn Raboutou the fourth, and Alex Megos the fifth. The climb is unlike most of the huge enduro lines in the rest of the cave. Instead, it’s short, bouldery, and intense. Starting with a jump off the ground, the route climbs through a series of near-horizontal roofs up slopers, pinches, and crimps. After a rest position, a big left-hand dyno follows, and then a technical crux. The route ends with a mantle onto a ledge and a victory whip onto the draw below.
Last month, Marchaland become the second climber in history to flash V15, with his first-go ascent of Power of Now Direct. In April, he sent his first 5.15b. The 24-year-old has redpointed six 5.15a’s and seventeen 5.14d’s.
Adam Ondra on Illusionist 5.14d
Stefano Ghisolfi climbing Kangaroo’s Limb 5.15a
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