Gripped Magazine
New 1,900-Metre Rock Climb on Kyrgyzstan Alpine Pillar
In mid-summer, three Polish climbers established a new route in the Ak-Su Valley in Kyrgyzstan’s Pamir Alai mountain range. Phillar of Experience, climbed by Piotr Kowalczyk, Leon Dobrzański, and Paweł Zieliński, follows a pillar on Peak 4300, a sub-peak of the 4,810-metre Odessa.
Phillar of Experience climbs 1,900 metres of terrain, with 1,000 metres of technical rock being broken down to 24 pitches. The team spent a night at 4,000 metres. They climbed it onsight and left no fixed gear on the route, as they descended a couloir on the opposite side of the route.
“Opening a new line in such a legendary valley, on such a striking pillar, was a dream come true,” said the team. “For us, Phillar of Experience is not only a climb, but a symbol of courage, trust, and the spirit of adventure in the high mountains. With its combination of length, clean style, solid rock, and aesthetic line, Phillar of Experience may become one of the future classics of the Ak-Su Valley.”
About climbing in the area, The Crag notes, “The threat of terrorism seems to have dissipated in the years since Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden got shot at in their portaledge. From the early 2020s, the region unfortunately seems to be scene to increasingly violent border tensions with the Tajikistan military. The potential for sporadic, violent clashes is real. Best to check with your embassy on the current situation before booking any trips.”
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