Connor Herson Climbs Drifter’s Escape, the World’s Hardest Trad Climb

American climber Connor Herson made the first free ascent of Drifter’s Escape (proposed 5.15a/9a+) on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish on July 14, 2025. The climb represented the culmination of two seasons working the route. If confirmed, the grade would make Drifter’s Escape the hardest traditional rock climbs in the world.

Reflecting on the achievement, Herson said: “Over the past two summers, I’ve had the gift of climbing Drifter’s Escape, a striking line of seams up a beautiful granite panel halfway up Squamish’s Stawamus Chief. It’s rare to find a line so special, offering some of the best and most unique movement I’ve experienced on gear, including a crux move that is a pogo.

“While much attention will naturally focus on the proposed grade, I didn’t even assign a grade for several months after completing it. The number won’t define this moment when I look back in the years to come. My time on the route was incredibly fun and positive, in no small part because of the people I shared it with. I am grateful to everyone who supported or worked the route alongside me. I would not trade those days for anything.”

Herson is one of the world’s most accomplished all-round climbers, with repeats of test-piece trad lines such as Empath 5.14+, Prayer for a Friend 5.14 onsight, Stranger Than Fiction 5.14-, Meltdown 5.14c, Magic Line 5.14c, Blackbeard’s Tears 5.14c, Cobra Crack 5.14b, and Crack of Destiny 5.14b. Other new routes he’s added to Squamish include Midnight Way 5.15a sport, and The Shart 5.14b trad.

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In Yosemite last year, Herson made the first free ascent of Triple Direct (5.14a, 30 pitches), freed The Nose in 9.5 hours with no falls, sent Golden Gate in 14 hours, El Corazón in 14.5 hours, Pre Muir Wall over two days. In 2024, he climbed the Heart Route (5.13, 31 pitches) with Tommy Caldwell, and made opened Resurrection Free (5.13d, 9 pitches).

The first ascent of Drifter’s Escape (5.9 A3) was by Eric Weinstein, Bill Thompson, and Dave Nicol in 1975. Herson’s send of Drifter’s Escape was documented by filmmaker Eric Bissell, who followed Herson through the later half of 2025. The footage was released today, watch below.

Drifter’s Escape First Free Ascent

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