Gripped Magazine
Russians Climb New Alpine Route on Manaslu
In October, a five‑person Russian team, Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eizeman, Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov and Andrey Vasilyev, completed a new route on the southwest face of Manaslu (8,163 m) in Nepal. The climbers moved in true alpine style, carrying all their own gear and supplies, without Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Their continuous push from base to summit marked a bold and minimalist approach to one of the Himalaya’s highest peaks.
The southwest face has a storied history. The first notable ascent in 1972 followed a line that avoided the central wall, gaining the west ridge via an ice ramp. The Russians’ new route took a new climb across the central wall before connecting with the historic line, effectively creating a new variation.
The team’s strategy relied on careful acclimatisation and light logistics. They trekked from Samagaon, avoiding a serviced base camp, and carried 12 to 14 days of supplies for a single continuous push. By Oct. 15, they reached the base of the wall at roughly 6,300 m and began the face climb on Oct. 17. Progress was steady, and the summit ridge was reached by Oct. 21, with the team standing on the peak the following day.
The descent proved equally demanding. The climbers bivouacked overnight above 7,800 m, then executed a series of rappels down the ridge and glacier terrain. After four days, they returned safely to the base of the face, completing the new route without incident. Reflecting on the climb, Andrey Vasilyev remarked, “We didn’t climb the grandest line. But we chose the right one.”
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