Neo Suzuki Wins Gold at First Lead World Cup of the Season

The first Lead World Cup of the 2026 season took place over the weekend in Wujiang, China. Neo Suzuki won gold, with Tokyo Olympic gold medallist Alberto Ginés López placing second and Dohyun Lee placing third.

The route for the finals was a tough one, and saw no tops. Suzuki may have climbed to the highest point of all the competitors, but he was still several moves away from the end. Perhaps this is why he said to World Climbing, “I’m satisfied with the result, but my performance in the final wasn’t good enough for me. I need to train harder.”

He also stated his intentions for the upcoming season, “I want to get three gold medals and all podiums at the World Climbing Series this year.”

Ginés Lopéz and Lee both fell at the same hold, earning a score of 39+, but Ginéz Lopéz took silver due to countback to the semi-finals, where he outpointed Lee.

“I can’t be disappointed today because Neo was so strong, he deserved the win,” said Ginés Lopez. “I have to be the best loser ever on the circuit. I want to check the stats and see if there is someone who has more finals with no victories than me.”

Comp climbing star Anraku had a difficult event this time around, placing fifth overall. “I’m lost with my lead climbing,” he said on Instagram. “I’m not confident now. It feels like I’m not myself. I don’t know what to do. But I have to find the way. Just that. In Prague, be the real me.”

Suzuki, 21, is a lead climbing specialist. He won two other gold medals in Lead in non-World Cup events this year. In the Japan National Championships, he earned gold and his spot on Japan’s national team. In April, he won gold in the Asian Championships. Last year, he won his first Lead World Cup gold in Innsbruck and silver in Wujiang.

Men’s Final Results

  1. Neo Suzuki (JPN) 44+
  2. Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 39+
  3. Dohyun Lee (KOR) 39+
  4. Satone Yoshida (JPN) 38+
  5. Sorato Anraku (JPN) 38+
  6. Sam Avezou (FRA) 35+
  7. Filip Schenk (ITA) 34+
  8. Victor Guillermin (FRA) 30

2026 World Cup Season Opener Highlights

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