Gripped Magazine
Satone Yoshida Climbs 5.15a Famous for its Three Dynos
Japanese climber Satone Yoshida has climbed Three Degrees of Separation 5.15a in Céüse, France, needing just four days and seven attempts to repeat Chris Sharma’s iconic route.
After the send, Yoshida said on 8a.nu: “I still can’t believe I send it…. I’m only 166cm, and it was kind a dream to send this classic dyno route!! If you don’t have enough height, you’re definitely going to struggle. But if you can find tiny holds and build the right sequence, sending it is far from impossible!! The first dyno turned out to be twice as far as I expected. I had to use a tiny foothold that no one else was using just to make the jump. Even getting to that point, I couldn’t do the standard beta, so I had to add a few extra moves using tiny holds.”
The 25-metre route has a mandatory dyno that makes it possible at 5.15a. The first ascent was by Sharma in 2007, and the second was by Adam Ondra in 2015 , who said, “To me it felt like the hardest route in Céüse, but that doesn’t mean that it is definitely at least 9a+[5.15a], because it doesn’t fit me that well, but my suggestion is 9a+ and we will see.”
Yoshida added: “Once I had the beta figured out, I knew this had become one of the projects I wanted to finish at some point in my life. That’s why I’m still the most surprised that everything came together this quickly and I managed to send it on this trip!! I think it was one of the best climbs of my life.”
Yoshida’s send comes a week after he finished seventh at the Chamonix World Cup. Last season, the 22-year-old placed third overall in the IFSC Lead World Cup standings. He currently sits eighth this season and has reached 18 World Cup finals during his career.
Chris Sharma FA
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