Gripped Magazine
Daniel Woods Sends Ego Death, Suggests V14
On June 12, Daniel Woods topped Keenan Takahashi’s Ego Death in a single session. Located in the Colorado alpine on Mt. Evans, the steep compression problem works its way up an 45-degree overhanging arete to a high topout. Takahashi originally graded the problem V15, but Woods believes it is more in the V14 range for him.
Takahashi made the first ascent of Ego Death in September 2023, sending on his third session. It was his first V15 FA. Jimmy Webb repeated the line in summer 2024.
“The intro is compression moves between perfect quarter pad edges,” said Woods about Ego Death on Instagram. “At the midway point, you do a tenuous heel and reach up left to a fat sloping pinch (crux), build feet, and compress your way through friction dependent sloping grips. The topout is definitely on ya and somewhat insecure at a respectable height.
“My goal was to try and do it in a session. Conditions were perfect (to me) and all the grips felt sticky. I examined the line and did all the individual moves first try. Next I went from the midway point to the top. This took a few tries due to commitment issues. I was solo and wish I had a couple more pads to make the ending feel safer.
“Next step was to send. My first send try ended with a fall near the top. I rested for a while, then got up it next try. My friction was not as good compared to the first try, which made the top feel pretty committing. I got to the last hard move and definitely questioned to go for it or not. Being a couple miles out and alone made the consequences feel more real. I said fuck it though, zoned in, and sent that shit. Honestly, it felt great to take control and trust in my ability to not fall. One of the more memorable climbing experiences I have had. Locking in on an alpine mega is priceless. I felt the power of the alpine and it gave me power back!”
Woods has over 40 ascents of problems V15 or harder. In 2021, he made the FA of America’s first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker in Red Rock, Nevada. He has sent many of V16s, most recently Adrenaline in 2024. He’s sent multiple 5.15a sport routes, and in his comp climbing days, he took home gold regularly, including at the USA National Bouldering Championships.
Keenan Takahashi’s FA of Ego Death
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