Gripped Magazine
Quebec’s Famous La Pomme d’Or Ice Climb Gets Hard New Variation
Vincent Landry is a 26-year-old climber from Quebec and a pro climber sponsored by The North Face and Blue Ice. He has completed major climbs around the world, but recently he turned his focus back home, establishing a first ascent in Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park. The new route is a WI6 M8+ variation to the internationally renowned classic, La Pomme d’Or (WI5+, 350 m).
La Pomme d’Or is the crown jewel of Quebec’s long ice routes. Nestled in the heart of Hautes-Gorges National Park, it has earned international recognition comparable to Polar Circus.
While rappelling the route this winter, Landry spotted a striking crack cutting across the wall to reach ice twenty meters higher, just five meters from the anchor. “The inspiration was instantaneous. I was convinced it would go,” he recalled.
To bring the vision to life, Landry enlisted Frédéric Maltais, a highly respected Quebec climber known for numerous first ascents. If anyone was going to attempt the project with him, it had to be Maltais.
The duo returned by fat bike, moving along the Malbaie River in darkness on one of those brutal −25 °C days. The crack sits roughly 280 meters above the ground, and they climbed in simul-style, efficiently reaching the base of the pitch before starting the work.
After a long, frigid day, Maltais completed the first ascent on toprope while Landry fell near the top where the ice thins. “The line was far harder than expected: marginal holds, microscopic feet, long reaches. Exactly what I had hoped for,” he said. After more than four hours in the harness, he was too exhausted to attempt a redpoint.
A week later, rested and focused, Landry and Maltais returned to attempt the lead ascent and claim the first free ascent. February 10 was perfect: mild temperatures with almost no wind. Looking up at the imposing twenty-meter wall of dark granite, Landry prepared for the challenge.
Maltais, ever the gentleman, let Landry lead. He did not expect to send the redpoint, recalling his fall the previous week. Yet being rested and calm played in his favor. He linked the pitch on his very first attempt, completing the first free ascent.
The relief was immediate. “A huge weight lifted off my shoulders as I reached easier ground,” Landry said. The new pitch, named La Pomme d’Adam, is graded WI6 M8+. “What a joy it was to climb this mixed gem on such a mythical route as La Pomme d’Or,” he added.
Follow Landry on Instagram for more of his climbing.
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