Gripped Magazine
South America Gets Its First 5.15b Rock Climb
Brazilian climber Felipe Camargo recently made the first ascent of Abaporu 5.15b (9b) in Serra do Cipó, Brazil. The route is the first of the grade in South America. Camargo had previously established the first 5.15a in South America with his first ascent of Auto Retrato in 2023.
“This one means a lot… I feel like this route is the culmination of years of work…traveling and climbing in Europe, learning from some of the best in the world and finally finding something like this in my own country, with the experience to make it happen!!” said Camargo on Instagram after his FA. “I had to dig really deep, and I’m so happy I pulled it off on what was probably the last good day of the season! What a beautiful and intense process… from spotting the line, bolting it, working out every move, and piecing the sequences together!! I fell nine times on the last boulder, it was starting to get really tough mentally!! In the end, I just had to let go… I was ready to send, but I had to learn to also be ready not to send.
“This is honestly one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever climbed!! The rock is incredible, and the diversity of the moves makes it feel like a true masterpiece shaped by nature. Huge thanks to everyone who supported me through this process… Hiking at 9:00 p.m. and belaying until 1:00 a.m. isn’t always fun, but I was lucky to always have amazing people willing to be there for me!!”
Abaporu is Camargo’s second of the grade. In 2019, he sent Chris Sharma’s El Bon Combat in Cova de L’Ocell, Spain. He has three 5.15a routes to his name: his FA of Auto Retrato in Brazil as well as repeats of Gancho Perfecto in Margalef in 2018 and Papichulo in Oliana in 2017.
The post South America Gets Its First 5.15b Rock Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine.