Gripped Magazine
American Alpine Club Gives Cash to Climbers with Himalayan Objectives
Two ambitious Himalayan objectives will receive support through this year’s American Alpine Club Cutting Edge Grant program. American alpinist Chantel Astorga has been awarded $7,000 to return to the huge northeast face of Mount Shivling in the western Garhwal Himalaya. In 2024, Astorga and Fanny Schmutz came within 250 meters of completing the route.
“When we first considered it, it seemed like it might be beyond our limits, but during our 2024 attempt, we moved steadily forward and watched our intended route unfold beautifully,” Astorga said. “Returning this fall gives us the opportunity to continue where we left off, with a better understanding of the route and what it demands.” This year, the pair will be joined by French alpinist Lise Billon.
Astorga is no stranger to groundbreaking ascents. A previous recipient of both the Cutting Edge Grant and the McNeill-Nott Grant, she has built an impressive resume that includes the first ascent of the southwest face of Nilkanth, the first ski descent of the Seattle Ramp variation on Denali’s West Rib, and the first female solo ascent of the renowned Cassin Ridge.
Also receiving support is Tad McCrea, who has been awarded $6,000 to pursue a new route on Kula Kangri (7,538 m). Describing it as “a big mountain with little history of climbing,” McCrea notes that the peak has seen few ascents since its first climb by a Japanese team in 1986. Together with Jon Griffin, he plans to tackle approximately 2,000 meters of steep technical terrain in an effort to establish a new line on the mountain.
McCrea is also a past Cutting Edge Grant recipient. In 2025, grant funding helped support the first ascent of Eye Ri on the previously unclimbed northern spire of Suma Brakk. The Club’s grants program continues to play a vital role in advancing ambitious climbing objectives, awarding more than $87,000 in funding in 2025 alone. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant open annually from Oct. 1 through Nov. 30.
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