Gripped Magazine
Connor Runge Makes 5.14d First Ascent in Squamish
On September 15, Canadian climber Connor Runge made the first ascent of Banana Man 5.14d (9a) in Squamish. The route is a variation of Creepshow 5.13d, which was opened by Marc Bourdon in 1998. Runge named the route after his late friend, Dave Tan, a local climber who tragically passed away last summer while hiking the Armchair Traverse in Whistler.
“[Holy] smokes!” said Runge on Instagram after his ascent. “After a summer of effort and over three years since [Sam Whalen] and I fired in the bolts on an extension of [Marc Bourdon’s] CreepShow, I finally clawed my way up and made the FA of “Banana Man” after the late Dave Tan. I humbly propose the grade of 5.14d / 9a, and I am totally open to opinions on that, grading is hard.
“There was NO chance I would’ve sent this thing if it wasn’t for the amazing support of my awesome girlfriend [Anna Hazelnutt] and my friends who came out and held rope. I had to fully level up to send this strange, strange rig and after an honorary punt above the crux (for my boys in the Rockies) I found the chains. I had to dream big and dig in to get this one done, just like Dave would’ve wanted me to do. (I sent the day after his birthday!)”
Banana Man is Runge’s second 5.14d route. He’s climbed many of Squamish’s hardest sport pitches, including Spirit Quest 5.14d, Young King Dave 5.14c, and Spectre Del Norte 5.14c, and Killer Queen 5.14b. Earlier this year, Runge established a 14-pitch 5.14b El Chaman Loco in El Salto, Mexico with Anna Hazelnutt.
To learn more about Banana Man, I reached out to Runge. You can read our short interview below.
Interview with Connor Runge
How many bolts is the Banana Man extension?
It’s more of a variation than an extension, Sam and I added two bolts and it has the same finish as Creepshow. It loops around through a series of small holds that are spaced far apart.
You call the route as a “strange, strange rig”. Why?
I described it as strange because the movements are so intense and unlike anything I’ve ever done before. They really demanded me to be creative and strong.
Can you describe the climb and what makes it so tough?
There was a variety of things that made this climb a challenge for me. It was so unique and technical, on super small holds, but also, it was so psychical in the biceps, fingers, and legs. It demanded me to be super flexible in my shoulder, deadpointing off a flipped undercling/two-finger press hold to a 10mm edge. Another issue was getting pumped but needing to nail every hold perfect, the hands and the feet needed to be tight and right where they needed to be.
You do the crux of creep show, get one chalk up and a clip, a big shoulder move, another chalk, and then you’re dropped into the crux of Banana Man, crimping as if your life depends on it.
What was your redpoint crux?
My redpoint crux was the boulder after Creepshow. It involves a series of big pulls off of Creepshow to gain a slight stance where I can chalk my right hand (but not shake), clip a draw, and quickly slap my left hand on my pants before I torque into the craziest shoulder position, build my feet up on shit, and dead point up to a 10mm edge with my right hand. If I latch that right hand and my right foot stays on, I “paddle through” to a left hand better hold, and a hell of a lot worse right hand hold. I can get one or two seconds here to reset before the next sequence.
I went out bouldering before I selected the proposed grade, and I think this section (for my height) is a double digit boulder problem.
Did you do any specific training for the climb?
I didn’t train pre-season for this route, but I did a lot of on season training, especially when it was raining or hot as hell. I was doing deadlifts, bench pressing, finger dead lifts (which I ended up gaining a PB, 105% of body weight), some bicep stuff, and hard Tension Board sessions, and lots of flexibility training.
How does the quality of Banana Man compare to Creepshow?
It’s fun!!! It uses the best bit of Creepshow and doesn’t let up until you’re at the chains! Perfect!
The post Connor Runge Makes 5.14d First Ascent in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine.