Gripped Magazine
Sam Richard Climbs Soudain Seul V17
Sam Richard has repeated Simon Lorenzi’s Soudain Seul V17 in Fontainebleau. Richard sent Es Pontas 5.15a last month. Richard placed a book under his kneepad, just as Lorenzi did for the first ascent.
“Session after session, I was getting closer, falling a little higher each time, until yesterday, when everything finally came together,” Richard reported on 8a.nu. “The key moment was when I went back to try one move at the end, just to find a micro-sensation I needed.”
Other climbers who’ve sent Soudain Seul include Coudert Camille, Nico Pelorson, and Adam Ondra, who said, “5 sessions. Definitely on the soft side, probably harder than 8C+? I would be very interested to be able to compare to other exisiting 9As [V17s]. A dream of a boulder.”
In total, Richard took 27 sessions (7 for the upper part, 20 for the beginning). “I was tired during the send, but I’ve never executed a try that well, surely my proudest achievement so far,” he said. “I used a kneepad, a book under my kneepad, and I asked a guy to customize my Instincts with a Drago toe hook and Drago heel (like Lorenzi). Absolutely essential.”
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