Gripped Magazine
Zélia Avezou Bests Janja Garnbret, Wins First Boulder World Cup of the Season
The first Boulder World Cup of the season took place from May 1 to 3 in Keqiao, China. In the event, Team France’s Zélia Avezou took home her first-ever World Cup gold, out-pointing comp climbing GOAT Janja Garnbret, who placed second overall. Avezou and Garnbret shared the podium with Oceana Mackenzie from Australia.
It was a very tight competition. Avezou and Garnbret made zone in their first attempt for problem one, as did most other competitors. Avezou then flashed problem two, while Garnbret topped it in two attempts, leaving Avezou 0.1 points ahead of Garnbret. Avezou topped problem three in two attempts, and Garnbret topped in four attempts, pushing Avezou’s lead to 0.3 points.
On the final problem of the night, Avezou topped in two attempts, climbing the problem brilliantly. This meant that even if Garnbret flashed the final problem, it was impossible for her to best Avezou. As Garnbret took the stage as the final climber of the women’s event, it was already clear that Avezou had won gold, but few seemed to notice, including the commentary team. Garnbret flashed the problem with ease, but Avezou was still 0.2 points ahead, earning her the gold medal.
Interestingly, Oriane Bertone was in the lead as she got ready for problem four – she achieved zone in one attempt on problem 1, flashed problem 2, and flashed problem 3. But when it came to problem 4, she was unable to reach zone and consequently dropped to fifth place overall.
The women’s comp in Keqiao was a tough one, with many of the sports top stars underperforming expectations. Brooke Raboutou, Erin McNeice, Miho Nonaka, and Melina Costanza all competed, but ultimately failed to qualify for the finals.
“I’m having a hard time taking it all in, I feel almost too small to hold so many emotions,” said Avezou on Instagram. “The love and respect I’ve received over the past few days are indescribable. Seeing you happy is the most beautiful part of this journey, and I thank you with all my heart. This victory is an achievement. But more than anything, it helps me realize the deep joy I feel in training. I’m fortunate to share these moments with my family and friends, no matter the outcome.
“I wish for all of you to walk a joyful path, surrounded by the right people, those are the memories we cherish the most and that carry us through life. So I will keep this memory very close to my heart, not as a single event, but as the result of years filled with happiness and love. Congrats to [Janja Garnbret, Oceana Mackenzie] and all the finalists, it was a pleasure to climb alongside you!”
Avezou, 22, is a familiar face on the World Cup circuit and has podiumed a few times. She won bronze in Villars in 2024, silver in Seoul in 2024, and silver in Salt Lake City in 2025. Had Garnbret won, this would have been her 50th gold.
“One too many mistakes and a second place at the first World Cup of the season,” said Garnbret on Instagram. “Mind feels good. Body feels good! Congrats to [Zelia Avezou] for a very well-deserved first victory!”
Final Results
- Zélia Avezou (FRA) 84.8
- Janja Garnbret (SLO) 84.6
- Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) 69.6
- Annie Sanders (USA) 69.5
- Oriane Bertone (FRA) 60.0
- Emma Edwards (GBR) 59.8
- Melody Sekikawa (JPN) 59.7
- Jennifer Eucharia Buckley (SLO) 44.7
2026 World Cup Season Opener Women’s Highlights in Keqiao, China
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