A new 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c developed atop Squamish’s iconic Cheakamus River 

If you’re familiar with Squamish, you’ve probably seen a ton of Instagram-perfect photos of climbers on Star Chek, a classic moderate multipitch above the majestic Cheakamus River.

That area has received several new climbs, with the highlights being a 5.11c, a 5.12d and a 5.13b/c, courtesy of two local guides: Evan Beatty and Keenan Gibson.

The new zone, dubbed The Enterprise, was recently opened to the public.

It started with a glance. In July 2024, local climber and guide Evan Beatty was on Indra’s Net with two friends when the arete on a neighbouring cliff to the south caught his eye. 

At a later time, he rapped in from above to scope the wall properly. What he found was a three-tiered face with good ledges and quality rock. By September, he was scrubbing. By June 2025, all the routes were finished.

For a route developer, it was a very ideal location.

“The most challenging part about scrubbing a new line is navigating the safety of others as you clean rocks, dirt and debris from the cliff, and release it trundling to the ground,” said Beatty.

“It was probably the most relaxed I’ve ever been developing a route, not having to think of others below. Almost every dry day that I was up there, I had spectators on the Galaxy Buttress watching me as I went to work on the wall, and cheering me on when a large trundle was about to occur.” 

Fast forward to October, and two routes were complete.

The main line, Eugenics War, 5.11c, is a three-pitch sport route with chains at each station, allowing climbers to work pitches individually before committing to the full objective. 

A variation, Wrath of Khan, 5.12d, shares the second pitch before veering left.

“It…follows a gently overhung thin crack system on amazing rock with f*** all for feet. It is epic,” said Beatty. “I gave it a lower rating though, solely because the route eases up a bit too soon to call it consistent.”

Bagging that FA involved a tape glove, big whippers, and a communication system born of necessity. Since the river was drowning out all voice commands, “hands off the wall means I’m falling” became the protocol.

The third main line on the wall, Kling On, a 5.13b, was opened up by Keenan Gibson, an apprentice rock guide. 

Gibson, who uses they/them pronouns, had their first look at the arete on a day they agreed to give Beatty a catch for his project. 

A single toprope burn was enough to convince Gibson it would go. And it left quite the impression.

“It took up 100% of my daily thoughts from that first TR to the send,” they said. 

“The boulder problem above the belay ledge is phenomenal. It feels like a high tension power slab, but your body’s always pushed out from the wall and you feel like you’re just desperately clinging on and trying to hold tension. An ill-timed exhale would probably pop you off.” 

Gibson bolted the route with their partner Alex DeForge, who is 5’2″ and projecting the line. 

Making sure the bolt placements worked for a wide range of body types was a priority, particularly through a powerful low crux above the belay ledge. 

“I’m most proud that a good hard pitch in a beautiful place exists and that it is welcoming to the largest demographic of people possible,” said Gibson.

The zone dries remarkably fast, often within hours of rain, thanks to afternoon sun and the river wind. 

However, the lines are committing. The approach requires rappelling in. Anyone who attempts these climbs should at least be comfortable leading 5.11+, as it’s an area where rescue is very challenging.

But there is a way out for anyone getting stuffed by the moves.

A moderate, Agni, which goes at 5.9, exists as an escape that links into Indra’s Net.

Finally, great care should be taken to use the southernmost trailhead from Highway 99 to avoid dropping rocks down onto climbers below.

Full details on the approach and the routes can be found here.

The post A new 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c developed atop Squamish’s iconic Cheakamus River  appeared first on Gripped Magazine.