Gripped Magazine
What it’s Like to Climb the Grand Wall in Squamish
For more than 50 years, the Grand Wall in Squamish has stood as one of North America’s most iconic multi-pitch climbs. The route’s story began in 1961, when Jim Baldwin and Ed Cooper completed the first ascent after roughly six weeks of determined effort. Among the strongest big-wall and alpine climbers of their era, the pair drew so much attention that people reportedly pulled off the highway just to watch their progress. After their historic climb, Baldwin and Cooper rated the line 5.6 A1, though today it’s considered 5.11 A0, or 5.13 if freed.
“Our ascent of the face of the Squamish Chief required some 135 bolts and probably 200 pitons,” Cooper wrote in the American Alpine Journal here. “Many mistakes were made, and perhaps others would have done better. But we made it, after nearly giving it up because of obstacles both on and off the face. No doubt the climb will be repeated, perhaps without the use of fixed ropes. Two days would be reasonable time for a competent party. But the challenge remains, that of a climb where only those who are thoroughly prepared should seriously consider the ascent, and even then, eventual success remains in doubt.”
It starts up Merci Me (5.8) before a rising traverse (5.10b) with good protection but poor feet to a bolt ladder that gets you to the Split Pillar. This photogenic crack (5.10b) widens from rattly fingers to wide fists to an even wider crack. The Sword crux (5.11a) follows, requiring careful gear placement and technical endurance. Perry’s Layback is lower-angle but still challenging. More 5.10 pitches get you to the top. After nine pitches, you can continue to the Roman Chimneys route, or traverse off via Bellygood Ledge.
If you’ve ever wondered what it feels like to move up the Grand Wall, then follow Brant Hysell below as he teams up with Jacob Cook for a full-value lap. And if you like climbing history, check out In the Shadow of the Chief about the first ascent here.
The Grand Wall
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