Gripped Magazine
Simon Lorenzi Sends V16 and Flashes V14
Simon Lorenzi recently sent Permanent Midnight Low V16 (8C+) and flashed Compass North V14 (8B+) in Val de Bagnes, Switzerland. Opened in May this year by Clément Lechaptois, Permanent Midnight Low climbs up a steep face with poor feet and lots of bicep power. Pietro Vidi made the second ascent earlier this month. Lorenzi’s ascent is likely the third.
“After a dramatic dry fire at the last move, had to come back and fight the next day to finish it on our last day just before the rain,” said Lorenzi about the climb. “Really psyched to come back for the direct version (project).”
Compass North was also put up by Lechaptois. Since its first ascent in 2022, its since many ascents, including a flash from Daniel Woods. Aidan Roberts and Jules Marchland both nearly flashed the problem. Marine Thevenet made the first female ascent a few month’s after Lechaptois’ FA.
“Patience was key, waited till I felt the shape was good enough,” said Lorenzi about his first-go ascent. “Soft for the grade but still my hardest flash yet!”
Lorenzi has sent four V17 problems. In February 2021, he made the first ascent of Soudain Seul V17, his first of the grade, spending over 25 sessions projecting the bloc. Nico Pelorson claimed the second ascent, instead suggested a grade of V16. The problem was then repeated again by Camille Coudert, who felt soft V17 was correct, as did Adam Ondra after his recent ascent of the Fontainebleau bloc.
Lorenzi’s second V17 was Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane, which he topped in December 2022. A little over a year later, he completed Burden of Dreams V17. In March, he sent Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker V17. He has sent many other hard boulder problems including the legendary Off the Wagon Low V16 in Switzerland and Big Conviction V16 and La Révolutionnaire Assis V16 in Fontainebleau. On top of all of his outdoor bouldering sends, Lorenzi is an accomplished comp climber, winning gold at the Boulder World Cup in Brixen in 2022.
Clément Lechaptois’ FA of Permanent Midnight Low V16
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