Gripped Magazine
Janja Garnbret Makes First Female Ascent of V14
Janja Garnbret has achieved the first female ascent of L’Oppio dei Climbers V14 (8B+) in Val Daone. The climb was FA’d by Valdo Chilese and has seen ascents by Stefano Ghisolfi and Adam Ondra, among others. Garnbret also went for the flash on Il Trono V13, and while she didn’t get it, she was able to send on her second go.
“The boulder that made me realize I should really take my chalk bag,” joked Garnbret on Instagram about her send of L’Oppio dei Climbers. “I’m glad to finish it quickly! Also stopped by Il trono [V13]. Gave it a good flash go, didn’t work out but send it 2nd go!”
Less than one week ago, Garnbret flashed the sport route Pure Dreaming 5.14+ in Arco, Italy. This is one of the hardest flashes ever. It was originally graded 5.14d (9a), but was given 5.14c (8c+) with kneepads and different beta. Garnbret didn’t use kneepads, a hold recently broke, and it sounds like she skipped a rest some climbers use on an adjacent route Athena. Since her 5.14+ flash, she has also ascended Rude V14 in Val Daone.
While the two-time Olympic gold medallist didn’t compete often during this year’s comp circuit, when she did, she made it count. She won gold at every event she participated in this year, including the Lead and Boulder World Cups in Innsbruck, the Lead World Cup in Koper, and the Lead and Boulder World Championships in Seoul.
Stefano Ghisolfi Climbing L’Oppio dei Climbers V14
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